Pants Progress

A little update on my pants progress...

Monday: I finished pattern alterations, made a muslin and adjusted the fit, altered the pattern to match the muslin and cut out fashion fabric and interfacing.

Today: I fused the interfacing to the waist band pieces and cut out the lining

Due to the number of alterations I did on the pattern I decided to make up a muslin and I am glad I did. Maybe the measurements I took were skewed since I did not have a helper, or maybe the Cynthia pants fitting workbook was for a style of pant that was not for my taste or maybe a combination. (you are supposed to use her pants pattern with the book)

From the muslin I decided that I needed to cut most of the pattern an entire size smaller, I did have to add a bit to the depth of the back crotch, I have a tush, so unless I add like an inch and a half to 2 inches in the back then the pants are always showing my crack and I don't like that.

I did need to shorten the length from hip to knee and lengthen from knee to hem to keep the pants proportions correct and to fit me. I also needed to deepen the back crotch seam to take out the bagginess under the butt. And the last thing I did was to make them slightly narrower, they are still a little on the wide leg style but the original width cut from my hip measurement was too wide. I guess that's what happens when your hippy :)

Unfortunately I did not get a picture of me in the muslin pair...

Muslin fabric, the blue lines are the stitching lines.

I used some horseshoe and star cotton fabric from my stash.

Fashion Fabric, gray, slightly metallic cotton/Lycra blend

Lining fabric... another cotton blend found in my fabric stash and smelled like attic so must have come from either my mom's or one of my grandmothers.

I like interesting linings, like a special surprise just for me to enjoy my clothes :)

Front lining pattern, cut with the yoke included, don't need pockets in my lining!

My trusty helper, Baby Blue. Red Bone/Blue tick hound.

She thought it would be a good idea to try and make a 'nest' out of my fashion fabric... she carefully tried pulling it right off the cutting table when I wasn't looking! That stinker.

A new Project: Pants

It has been a couple of years since I have made myself some pants. I decided to go ahead and go for a new pattern since my old favorite is a bit out of date.

I am using a pants fitting workbook that I picked up at an Original Sewing and Quilt Expo 2 years ago by Cynthia Guffey. I am using this workbook to take my measurements and then she details step by step how to alter your pattern to make it fit you as well as how to fix fitting issues.

I am using Simplicity 2700 Amazing Fit pants and am going to use Sandra Betzina's fly zipper instructions.

I am still on the fence about making amockup in muslin or if I should just go for it with one of my more inexpensive fashion fabrics and use it as a working muslin... what to do, what to do!

First thing is first and off to the sewing room to finsih altering the pattern!

Mom... your jeans are hemmed!

When I was home a couple of weeks ago my mom handed me a pair of jeans that she really looks good in but that were like 3 or 4 inches too long for her petite frame. She asked so nicely if I could pin them up to the correct length and then again so nicely if I could take them home with me because she worried that her sewing machine would severely balk at going through all that denim. So I did, cause I love her and I am a good daughter :)

So mom your jeans are hemmed and they look as good as new. The only difference you will see is on the inside of the hem. I don't own one of those special machines they use with twin needles and twin bobbins... I only have one bobbin thread to catch both top threads. But from the outside no one will ever know!

Before: that was how much shorter they needed to be so first I had to pick out all the twin lines of stitching then cut away the excess and then re-iron it all to the correct length.

Supplies: Denim twin needle and heavy weight thread to match existing thread on jeans.

I spooled out an extra bobbin to use for my thread on the second needle. and then hung the bobbin up behind the machine and thread both threads as if they were one,

I used a piece of soap to make a 'rubbing' of where the inside fold was. This allowed me to accurately line up the double needle to the exact place so I could be sure that it would catch the inner fold correctly.

Inside of hem

outside and all done!

Just need to wipe of the soap line with a damp rag.