Simplicity 1801 Cynthia Rowley dress

 This dress had been sitting in my workroom partially finished since before my trip to San Francisco early in September. I was hoping to get it done for that trip. I had wanted a work dress that would work with brown shoes and accesories. 

This photo shows the colors the best! 

When traveling for work I find that it is easiest to either go with black shoes/accesories or Brown shoes/accesories as my base for outfits. This makes for easier packing and planning of outfits! On long trips I will often take both but really felt I was lacking a dress to go with brown. So with just a couple of days to go before my trip I perused my stash and came up with this knit. The colors work perfectly with the Pantone fall colors. It has the reds, the pops of the blue and orchid and of course with it being a print it is always more forgiving at hiding body imperfections. Originally I had thought of using my TNT knit wrap dress pattern but decided I needed to break out of my box.

This Cynthia Rowley pattern was also in my stash. Perfect! That means the dress was free.... Right!?!?!?

If memory serves me correctly I picked up this mid weight ITY knit of of JoAnns super sale racks. It has a nice weight to it without being to heavy. 

This pattern does call for woven materials but I wanted it in a knit, so a knit it was made out of. I made several changes. The biggest was to the neckline. I really love a V neck but I have to muslin them because many times I have to make adjustments so that it is work appropriate and I didn't want to have to wear camisole underneath. Due to the knit I was also able to leave out the zipper. The last change was to cut it 2 inches longer than the shorter dress length. Again, I find some of the dress lengths a little to short for work wear and travel. Nothing worse than having to always be tugging at a neckline and hem or worrying about an inappropriate flash. Nope... That certainly would not do!

When gathering longer areas together I back stitch my gathering stitches at both ends and then pull the threads from the middle. This helps me keep things more evenly gathered as well as there being NO chance that I will accidentally pull one of the stitches out! This dress had LOTS of gathering. At the front and back at the shoulder yokes, at the bodice to the waist and then the skirt to the waist. 

I actually really like this dress quite a lot. However, next time I make it, regardless of knit or woven, I really need to lengthen the front bodice and go down maybe half a size in the upper chest and shoulder area. I also need to stabilize the pockets so I don't get sag. I had some stabilizer tape out on my work table but when you leave a project in works for almost 3 weeks.... Well the brain doesn't always remember what it should.

Here are some rather dull looking selfies from the hotel room! But at least you get an idea of how it looks on me :)

Speaking of that front bodice length. I have noticed a trend over the past year that I feel like in many of my makes from the Big 4 that I need to lengthen the bodice..... I do flat pattern measurements for so many other parts, one would think that I would also measure that!!! No I will! 

Overall I am happy with this make and it is a great addition to my work wardrobe. I can wear it with flats or pair it up with leggings and boots. Very versatile. 

In other sewing news I finally had to purchase a new iron. My old one decided to just quit working and water was just leaking out and even after cleaning it several times it was still gunky and spitting. After having to re-wash several lengths of fabric after trying to iron them I had had enough! I bought this very beautiful and heavy Rowenta from Bed Bath and Beyond with a 20% coupon. Ohhhhh, she is nice!

On a non- sewing front update. I had a follow-up cardiologist appointment this Monday and I have been officially released! My atrial septal aneyeurism has not magically gone away and my mitral valve has not un-prolapsed BUT all of my symptoms are well under control and other than having to lose some weight I am in excellent health! Blood Pressure, Pulse, triglycerides, cholesterol are all in the excellent ranges. All I need to do is just keep following up with my regular general physician. Happy News!!

Parting shots (not the best pics...) of Princess Victoria on her very first swing. And yes.... She is dressed as batman! Thanks to her grandpa :) 

Simplicity 3956 'sexy' top

I had to call this a 'sexy' top because for me the neckline is a daring one. It is at about the limit of low and wide that I will go!! I actually had to audition different bra's to go with this one because several of my bras had cups and bridges that just peeked out way too much. The final bra I decided upon was one that had a cut low enough to work. However, I still used some of that double sided body tape to adhere my bra to the top and at the shoulders to adhere the bra strap to the shoulder. 

I was really glad I did this for the evening event I wore this to because I didn't once worry about things slipping out of place and just gave me that little extra confidence :) I wore this top along with my Stockbridge skirt to an international professional ballroom dance competition. It was a long evening with a plated dinner starting at 6:30 followed by the competition from 8- midnight in a different ballroom and then an after party that went to almost 2 am! It was great fun to be all dressed up and those dancers were just AMAZING!!!

So let's talk specifics. The fabric is a beautiful poly charmeuse by Robert Kaufman that I purchased from Linda Z's in Arlington Heights, IL. The fabric was a dream to work with! (Normally I very much dislike poly's but this was quite nice) I lined the bodice with a light grey china silk. Yummy against my skin.

I used a single layer layout and took my time to pattern match the upper bodice portion on the front and back. The skirt peplum portion is on the bias so I did my best to match at the front so that the design looked symmetrical. I think it came out quite nice. The only part that I had the hardest time in matching was the top on grain portions to the bottom bias sections. I did my best at the front center to get someone that at least looked OK, I think it looks off a smidge left to right. But I'm also being picky with myself!!  The hems were done on the serger as a rolled hem with wooly nylon and with 2 passes for nice coverage and some added weight to hang pretty.

Pattern is Simplicity 3956 6 tops with different variations. I basically made view A with the longer length of view C as the bottom. 

I made some changes to the pattern in the bodice. After doing a quick pin fitting I needed to change the depth a little bit. I actually made 2 different variations for the new top pattern. One for evening wear and then I also drafted one for day wear with more modest coverage.

On this picture above you can see how I changed the center front height of the wrap portion. Also my marks wear I drew the fabric design on the center front line so that when I flipped it over I could match up the exact same design for the other side. Worked like a charm! Not the most economical use of fabric but for a special top I think it is worth it :)

This photo above shows the difference between what I did for the day to evening looks, added much more coverage from the shoulder on down and also redrew the shoulder slope to fit me better. The photo below shows what I did for the final changes. I still had too much fabric to ease across the chest. So I drew and cut a line from the upper third of neckline to but not through the armhole and the overlapped 3/4 of an inch. I also took off a half inch from the side seams front and back.

The pattern directions were just fine, I took a look at them before I began the project just to see if there was anything funny in them. I also eliminated the zipper. I was going to put the zipper in the side but when I had basted everything together to make any fitting adjustments I found that I didn't need one. I believe this is because the fitted portion of the bodice is just in the bust area, if it had been fitted any lower I would have needed one or possibly if I was shaped differently. 

All in all a very successful lovely evening top! I have several weddings this summer and one is themed black and white so this will fit the bill nicely. :)

Happy Sewing!

Completed Simplicity 1653

Last night I finished Simplicity 1653 Amazing Fit Wrap Dress.

I made View C with a longer skirt length. My dress length ended up being halfway between the two pattern options.

Fabric Used: an ITY bought from JoAnn's clearance section. The lining pieces were from my stash.

I used the separate pattern pieces for the 'curvy fit' back and the 'C' cup front. I also omitted the 2 back darts. I don't need those darts accentuating my nice sized rear end. :) I really like the ties that go down the side.

The pattern doesn't call for a lining but this knit fabric was just slightly to sheer for my liking. Nothing like standing in front of a light or the sun and having everyone see your legs right through the fabric... No thanks! I lined the full back piece and the front skirt. Much better!

The weather has been grey and rainy and by the time anyone is around to take pictures of me in it it is already dark out. So these are on the dress form, I'll work on getting pics of me in it soon. I purchased a heavier ponte knit to make this dress again but I think with the long sleeve version.

The photos below are beautiful flowers that my hubby gave me!!! Love!

Next up on the sewing table:

Finishing my Cyntia Guffey skirt

And another new simplicity shirt pattern. 

And a baby quilt!

So much to do!!!

Finished Shirt: SImplicity 4878

I finished the hems on my latest shirt. I used a very fine fusible straight tape on the hem of the body. I serged the edge and caught the tape in the edge of the serging. I then pressed up the hem 1 1/4 inches and did a line of stitching. I like using the tape on the hems of my knit shirts, I find that it keeps them from stretching out of shape and from getting wavy and it also gives just a tad bit more stability/weight to it.
The sleeve hems, I just serged the edge, turned up 1 inch and stitched.

Below are a couple of pictures of me modelling the shirt. Still need to work on the self portrait skills!! LOL not sure where I am looking at.,.

I took pictures at a variety of 'poses' so that I could see how the shirt looked. For the most part I am quite satisfied... As usual, it is the body underneath that I always end up critiquing!

And I did change how the collar was pressed, I had to fold in half and press when sewing it in and I did not like how that looked. To change it, I just set up my steam iron and pulled the collar apart and super steamed it so that it was nice and floppy and soft. So much better!

Please excuse the very bad hair... did not feel like doing it for the photos :)

Arms straight

arms up and still looks good

Kneeling down and no back gap between the waist of my jeans and the hem of the shirt! woohoo!

(although there is the dreaded back fat!! must do more exercises!!)

A new shirt for me, Simplicity 4878

I have had this pattern ready and altered and sitting on my sewing table for several months now. I finally got around to cutting it out and sewing it up :)

Simplicity 4878 from 2004 line. Style E and I used a multi size pattern with the 16 on top and graduated to an 18 through the hips and I added 3 inches in length. (I really hate when my shirt pulls up in the back and you get that strip of skin between my pants and the top and most shirts do that, I think partly from the lower waist styles of pants)

The fabric is all from my stash, I did not quite have enough of the body knit to do the arms and collar with so I decided to pull a basic black knit from the stash to make it in a color blocked version. The blue multi colored knit has been in my stash for probably 15 plus years... It is nice to finally have used it!

I really need some more casual, hang out, grocery shopping etc clothes. and this fit the bill. I am a little unsure of the collar, it is not a collar type I would normally wear but it looks good on and nice to have something slightly different.

I still need to hem the sleeves and body portion and then it is finished.

Basic knit T pattern with shoulders cut with the sleeves

I choose the most basic and did view E, the drawing shows the collar flatter than the picture on the pattern front, which shows the collar standing straight up.

My version

The collar here looks even floppier, but very comfortable on. Will make a great spring, summer evening shirt. the Knits are lightweight, 3/4 length sleeve and loose collar.

Side view

I finally got around to straightening up my sewing room! Too many things were beginning to accumulate all over the place!

On another note, I ordered swatches today of equestrian fabric. I am need of new show breeches and simply cannot afford the super high priced ones from the tack shops. Good show breeches can run anywhere from 150$ to 300$+. And of course since I am a real woman with curves it seems that only the super expensive ones ever fit me! I figure I have one pair of nice breeches that i bought on super clearance a couple years ago so I may as well take a try at copying them and sewing my own. Sure can't hurt to give it a try!

Another finished project and some goals for 2010

The temperature is frightfully cold outside which left me huddling indoors to stay warm. To cold to takes the girls for a walk and waaaaaay to cold to ride Fawkes... but a perfect day to play in my sewing room :)

I just finished up another top. This is made from the same pattern as my birthday top, Simplicity 2960. I did make several changes to it. I cut a size smaller, I re-drew and cut the neckline an inch lower and used a bias binding on the neckline instead of facings, I cut the length shorter by 3 inches and made it in a short sleeve version and applied the elastic at the waist line differently. This fabric is not quite as delicate as the one I used for my birthday shirt so it was quite a bit easier and faster to work with.

It was fun to work on a spring/summer shirt while it was below zero outside... helped to keep my mind on some fun in the sun!

Front

Back

Sleeve detail
The pattern did call for a second row of ruffles sewn over the seam of the lower ruffle on the sleeve but I did not add it on, it made it look a little to 'little girly' for my tastes!

Now onto some thoughts on what I want to accomplish in my sewing room during 2010.

1. enjoy the process and what I am making/creating

2. make some handbags

3. try some 'art' quilts

4. pants, pants, and more pants

5. sew for others (as in birthday and holiday gifts)

6. a Channel style jacket

7. to not purchase any clothes (except socks and under clothes) make them all myself

8. to experiment more and try new things, new colors and new techniques.

I think those are some good goals for 2010! we shall see what I can get done.

My Birthday Shirt and a stop in the NYC Garment District.

Christmas has come and gone and now we are onto my birthday and New Years.

The Monday of Christmas week found me in NYC with an afternoon to spare. hmmmm... what does one do in NYC with 5 hours of uninterrupted time??? Hit the garment district and go fabric shopping! An early birthday gift to myself. :-)

The only problem is that I promised myself NOT to go fabric shopping in NYC again until I used the last of my fabric up from when I went shopping last year. UGH... well, last year was a quick stop at mood only with the purchase of 3 panels of an end of Roberto Cavalli 'Just Cavalli' fabric and it just happens that this piece of fabric was already out on my cutting table just waiting to be made into a new top for me to wear on my birthday. So, I reasoned to myself that as long as I made good on getting that top done for my birthday then the fabric was officially used... gotta love good reasoning!

Well, I spent all afternoon in the Garment district and hit 5 fabric shops, 2 trim shops and a bead shop! It was wonderful and such a nice treat :)

Now, onto my birthday shirt. I have hemmed and hawed over what to do with this fabric for several months. I have had it on a hanger where I can see it, I have had it draped on my dress form, I have imagined it made up into all sort of great garments and then I decided that I needed to make sure that I made it into something that I was going to wear and enjoy wearing. My first instinct was a dress, it would make a fabulous dress, only problem is that I just don't wear that many dresses and have a bunch already in my closet that are really nice and don't get used enough. So I decided on a tunic top, a piece that is much more versatile for my wardrobe.

Then the decision as to how to cut it up and use the fabric. I layed out the pattern pieces in several ways and I consulted with my 20something daughter and hubby (the artistic man of the house) and cut out the pieces. It was a pain to cut out, slippery sucker of a fabric and I was placing my pattern pieces all over the place. I had to refold and readjust the fabric for each pattern piece I cut out.

I have 3 days before my birthday so I should be able to have it finished in time! Otherwise I may look funny going out to dinner with no top!

View of the fabric (a single panel)

I had to stand on a step stool to get it all in!

Each panel had 3 distinct areas.

Bottom area like a mass of cool tattoos.

This is the part that I cut out for the bust of the top.

The middle area was more subdued...

solid black with scattered 3' images on it. again resembling small tattoos.

This is what I cut out for the skirt part of the top (below the bust) as well as for the sleeves.

The top of each panel had this weird striped area that I did not use at all in this project.

I am not a big fan of it but you never know...



Simplicity 2690 view E (minus the neckline jewels)

The pattern is cut out, the interfacing is fused and everything is ready for me to sew.

A new Project: Pants

It has been a couple of years since I have made myself some pants. I decided to go ahead and go for a new pattern since my old favorite is a bit out of date.

I am using a pants fitting workbook that I picked up at an Original Sewing and Quilt Expo 2 years ago by Cynthia Guffey. I am using this workbook to take my measurements and then she details step by step how to alter your pattern to make it fit you as well as how to fix fitting issues.

I am using Simplicity 2700 Amazing Fit pants and am going to use Sandra Betzina's fly zipper instructions.

I am still on the fence about making amockup in muslin or if I should just go for it with one of my more inexpensive fashion fabrics and use it as a working muslin... what to do, what to do!

First thing is first and off to the sewing room to finsih altering the pattern!