Friday, March 9, 2012

The Couture Dress: Part 2

Now that I have my dress form perfected, I have been able to make some progress on my Couture Dress class.

The muslin has been fitted and adjusted and then refitted to make sure I liked the adjustments.

A couple of basic adjustments that I made.
Took in about an inch at each side seam above the waist, raised the armhole by 1/2 inch, added a 1/2 inch to the side seams just below the waist. Those a pretty basic adjustments that I was not surprised to make.

The adjustment that I was surprised about making was that I needed to lengthen the front bodice a full inch and tapered to nothing added at the side seams. The dress has a bias pieced band that runs just above the waist around the body. Before I made the adjustment this band was pulled upward in the front and just looked funny. Once I made the adjustment I was able to get the entire band to run perpendicular to the floor as it should.

After perfecting the fit and transferring all the information on to the muslin, I took the muslin apart and used it at the pattern to cut out the interlining. I. Used a fine 100% white cotton for my interlining. This step is exactly like the first step where you cut out the fabric and use a tracing wheel to transfer all the information onto the interlining. I used red waxed tracing for the seam lines and any markings within the seam allowances for any areas that needed to marked in the main body of the fabric I used a light yellow. The yellow does not show through the fashion fabric but the red did.

I must comment here that this process is both slightly tedious as it seems to take me about 55mins for each and every step! However, I also find it quite liberating since by the time I get to cutting into the fashion fabric I feel comfortable with the pattern and no worries about cutting into an expensive piece of fabric. I have also found that while working with the muslin and interlining that I keep in my mind my fashion fabric and how I want to best make use of it.

At this point I have spent aprox 7 hours on this dress, i have made and adjusted the fit of my muslin, deconstructed the muslin and cut out the interlining, transferred all the sewing lines and marks to the interlining. Doesn't sound like a lot of work for 7 hours!!

Next step is to cut out my fashion fabric and hand baste the interlining and fashion fabrics together.

In the mean time... I have been playing with another project. This one is a fun top that I have had cutout for at least 2 years. I have NO idea why I cut a top out of this particular fabric... But I did. So, my challenge to myself was to finish the top in such a way to make it fashionable and fun to wear regardless of the base fabric. Pictures to come!!

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Location:,Lisle,United States

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