Sunday, February 12, 2012

Simplicity 0570 in maroon/cream wool double cloth

I love finishing a project. I'm calling this my Evolution Serger Coat.

I wanted to make a new coat and I wanted to play with my new serger and I wanted to push my comfort zone in my sewing skills. I noticed when I moved my sewing rooms to my new sewing studio that some of my favorite fabrics have not been used because I am a little scared of cutting into them. Not sure why.... Except for ruining beautiful pieces of fabric.



Back on track... Simplicity 0570
This pattern has several different versions and states that it is made for fleece. I went with a wool double cloth.
Due to my fabric choice I eliminated all facings and interfacing. I made some slight design changes in the collar.



I really like 95% of this coat... The only part that I am a little iffy on is how I attached the collar. But I think it will grow on me.

The Evolution portion of this project is seen in the seams, the were all done with flat locking that finished the reversed side beautifully. I was really happy with how it turned out. I finished all the edges with a 3 thread serged overlock stitch, I also used this stitch for attaching the collar. On the collar edge I used one of the Evolutions specialty stitches, the wave stitch. My new serger is amazingly awesome! It is so easy to thread and to switch between stitches.









I made a muslin out of stash fabric that I kept for that purpose. I only pinned in the zippers. I made a couple of fitting adjustments at the waist. I tried the muslin on with a thick sweater and also with a suit jacket to make sure that the fit through the shoulders and the arms was comfortable. I wanted to make sure I could wear this with warm clothes on underneath. I picked the size by finished measurements, I like this fit but I think the sleeves are overly roomy. In the picture I just had on a t-shirt, when worn with more clothes the wrinkles on the arms from the extra fabric were filled out and not so noticeable.



I like the zipper details on the sleeves and the front opening, makes it fun and a little different.






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