With mockup in hand I brought it to my mentor, Sarah Veblen, to assess the fit and help me make the necessary fitting changes. For this dress it was easier for me to start with a mock up of the pattern since I did not have any master pattern that was even close to this design. I did a full set of flat pattern measurements and made several adjustments from the start. The fit of the mock up was not too bad! My usual changes had to be made, including re shaping the entire armhole!
With the mockup of the dress on it was cute, it was an ok design but not the awesome amazing design that I wanted! Sarah took a sharpie and just started drawing right on the mock up. What if we did this? changed this? so with our heads two heads working together in collaboration we came up with a final design that still resembles the original Ralph Rucci silhouette but has really been changed to make it all mine!
In the photo below you can see the basic changes that were made to the design.
- Neckline changed to a square
- upper side front piece added, this lines up with the lower side pieces and creates a nice line. Also allowed for removal of the dart, acts as a princess seam.
- Changed the waist inset piece and removed the ties.
- changed the sleeve to either sleeveless or cap sleeve, also working on a 3/4 length sleeve for colder months.
- added back shoulder darts
- modified length.
- redrafted my own lower band pieces.
|Original line drawing versus my design changes.|
The pink/floral dress is made from a floral print woven with some lycra along with the pink linen. I did not want to have so many seams or the topstitching on the lycra because as you know there can be some distortion and stretching with the lycra fabric. Due to the lycra content the the pink/floral version I eliminated the front and back center seams using only a short side seam zipper for entry into the garment. I also eliminated all of the topstitching. Making these changes also made the construction of this garment much, much faster! The pink floral fabric was from Sawyer Brook fabrics (no longer available), the pink linen was from my stash possibly from fabricmart...
|The pink/floral dress has a short side lapped zipper from above the waist inset detail to the underarm.|
|Sneaker dress, in three views|
- top Arrow: the side front piece print turned sideways so the sneakers come across my body.
- second arrow: main body of the dress and lower side panels, sneakers going up and down, print carefully cut to keep sneakers in pairs.
- third arrow: waist inset: sideways print so sneakers go across my waist
- forth arrow: pockets, sneakers cut sideways to add interest and break up the print on the side panel.
- bottom arrow: The bottom panel print cut off grain so that the center front has 2 pairs of sneakers lining up to face each other.
|Print placements along the dress|
What really made this dress challenging was the inset corners. There are 4 inset corners that have to be sewn. The rest of the corners are either faced or seamed. I practiced a bit on the inset corners before sewing them in my fashion fabric! I made 2 muslins of the dress, the original and then one with all the design changes. I also just cut out some scraps and tested my inset corners on my scraps before proceeding.To be succesful with my corners, I did several tests and I documented what I did with my tests so I could recreate the results! Having to pick out an inset corner in fashion fabric would have been a nightmare and the chances of getting a good result would have diminished exponentially! Practice allowed me to give my hands the feeling of what needed to be done so my brain could less worry about if I was doing it right. Hopefully that makes sense!!
The inset corners on the pink/floral dress were harder to do because the lycra content provides a measure of squishiness to the fabric that is not present in an all cotton woven. The corners below look real good to me. Not 100% perfect but that's OK!!
|Detail of pink/floral dress inset corners.|
|Bias faced armholes on both dresses.|
|inside of the dresses, unlined and 3 thread overlock serge finished for neatness.|
Here are some photos of me in my dresses! Unfortunately I don't have any real good ones of me in the pink.floral except for this hotel room selfie! It will have to do for now!.
|Pink/floral corner dress with pink and orange leather flats. Perfect dress!|
|Cheers from Princess Victoria!!|