|Loving my new coat!!|
***Warning*** A heck of a lot of photos! 26 to be exact!!
If you only want to see the final product and the highlights of the project go to this post:
Step 1: Create a pattern. For this I used my mater darted bodice pattern. Rotated darts into horizontal lines, used the Pamela Vanderlinde Patternmaking for Jacket and Coat Design book to guide me on how and where to expand for wearing ease.
|First draft of pattern- I made 4 versions before getting to final coat version.|
|Muslin between version 2 and 3. I always get the body portion of the design nailed down and then move to the sleeves last.|
|Final muslin with sleeve added.|
|Showing the sleeve with the zipper slit|
Moving on to construction: In the last post I mentioned that I ended up cutting out 80+ pieces of fabric! the Front and back main bodies each have 18 separate pieces of fabric. Each main wool fabric piece was underlines in cotton flannel. Each piece of cotton flannel was hand basted to the accompanying wool piece.
|Hand basted cotton flannel attached to the wool fabric.|
|Construction of back pieces. Underlining trimmed and measures taken to reduce bulk. The horizontal seams are top stitched for design.|
|Close up of catch stitching of the vertical seams to the underlining.|
|Photos of the inside and outside of the back.|
|Detail of the external pocket construction|
|In-progress photo in the mirror.|
|Look at that plaid matching!!|
The biggest challenge in sewing the lining was matching the plaid! I wanted it to look like that the back and front pieces were cut out of one solid piece of fabric and not cut out of 6 separate pieces!
On the facing I was able to eliminate the back shoulder dart by taking a closed wedge across the pattern piece. This helped to reduce bulk! I used an fusible mid weight hair canvas for the facing pieces and this was a perfect amount for stabilization! I also used a modified method of adding a pocket in between the facing and the lining from the book Cool Couture by Kenneth D King. In his method he adds piping. I wanted a very sleek invisible look.
|Details of lining, facings and inside pocket.|
|Detail of sleeve pieces and flat construction to do the top stitching.|
Once the flat pieces were constructed and top stitched I sewed the underarm sleeve and left the opening for the zipper. The sleeve was then carefully steamed and pressed.
|Details of the sleeve inside and out prior to sleeve head and zipper insertion.|
I used a sleeve head made of tie interfacing cut on the bias to smoothly gather the sleeve head and to provide some support and keep it from collapsing. This eliminates having to baste and gather the thick fabric and you can see how nicely shaped they are after sewing these in and a steam shaping/pressing.
|Details of sleeve head and the shaping the help provide.|
|Details of the lower sleeve and zipper insertion.|
|Details of my test welt buttonhole and details of making the actual welts.|
|Details of the tread basting and of the welts sewn on to the front of the coat|
|Details showing the silk organza , the welts sewn on and the clipping of the fabric to make the opening from the back side.|
|Details of the bound buttonhole process.|
|Details of the sleeves set-in with the horizontal seams matching almost perfectly!|
|Details of the inside of the facing side of the buttonholes and the hand stitching of the lining.|
|Details of the collar and the coat front prior to the buttons and collar snap being sewn on.|
If I were to make it again there are only 2 things that I would change about it. (other than design features or style lines!)
- I would make the inseam pockets slightly wider.
- I would experiment a little more on the hem finish. This was basically lined to the edge but I feel like this was a little wimpy for this coat.
Other than that I am over the moon and staying nice and warm :)
|Once again a picture of my niece and I in Utrecht, Netherlands.|
|On a walk with the Princess yesterday and we had to jump in every puddle!! Reminds me to take joy in the simple things of life!|