Simplicity 3956 'sexy' top

I had to call this a 'sexy' top because for me the neckline is a daring one. It is at about the limit of low and wide that I will go!! I actually had to audition different bra's to go with this one because several of my bras had cups and bridges that just peeked out way too much. The final bra I decided upon was one that had a cut low enough to work. However, I still used some of that double sided body tape to adhere my bra to the top and at the shoulders to adhere the bra strap to the shoulder. 

I was really glad I did this for the evening event I wore this to because I didn't once worry about things slipping out of place and just gave me that little extra confidence :) I wore this top along with my Stockbridge skirt to an international professional ballroom dance competition. It was a long evening with a plated dinner starting at 6:30 followed by the competition from 8- midnight in a different ballroom and then an after party that went to almost 2 am! It was great fun to be all dressed up and those dancers were just AMAZING!!!

So let's talk specifics. The fabric is a beautiful poly charmeuse by Robert Kaufman that I purchased from Linda Z's in Arlington Heights, IL. The fabric was a dream to work with! (Normally I very much dislike poly's but this was quite nice) I lined the bodice with a light grey china silk. Yummy against my skin.

I used a single layer layout and took my time to pattern match the upper bodice portion on the front and back. The skirt peplum portion is on the bias so I did my best to match at the front so that the design looked symmetrical. I think it came out quite nice. The only part that I had the hardest time in matching was the top on grain portions to the bottom bias sections. I did my best at the front center to get someone that at least looked OK, I think it looks off a smidge left to right. But I'm also being picky with myself!!  The hems were done on the serger as a rolled hem with wooly nylon and with 2 passes for nice coverage and some added weight to hang pretty.

Pattern is Simplicity 3956 6 tops with different variations. I basically made view A with the longer length of view C as the bottom. 

I made some changes to the pattern in the bodice. After doing a quick pin fitting I needed to change the depth a little bit. I actually made 2 different variations for the new top pattern. One for evening wear and then I also drafted one for day wear with more modest coverage.

On this picture above you can see how I changed the center front height of the wrap portion. Also my marks wear I drew the fabric design on the center front line so that when I flipped it over I could match up the exact same design for the other side. Worked like a charm! Not the most economical use of fabric but for a special top I think it is worth it :)

This photo above shows the difference between what I did for the day to evening looks, added much more coverage from the shoulder on down and also redrew the shoulder slope to fit me better. The photo below shows what I did for the final changes. I still had too much fabric to ease across the chest. So I drew and cut a line from the upper third of neckline to but not through the armhole and the overlapped 3/4 of an inch. I also took off a half inch from the side seams front and back.

The pattern directions were just fine, I took a look at them before I began the project just to see if there was anything funny in them. I also eliminated the zipper. I was going to put the zipper in the side but when I had basted everything together to make any fitting adjustments I found that I didn't need one. I believe this is because the fitted portion of the bodice is just in the bust area, if it had been fitted any lower I would have needed one or possibly if I was shaped differently. 

All in all a very successful lovely evening top! I have several weddings this summer and one is themed black and white so this will fit the bill nicely. :)

Happy Sewing!

Jeans # 3 and why NEVER to use cheap/inexpensive denim

My third pair of jeans ended up being a major bust :( this is what happens when you use fabric that is not if good quality. A very, very frustrating experience. 

The idea behind this third pair was to make a couple of small changes in the fit and use a denim with a small amount of spandex in it for recovery. The spandex in a high quality fabric provides excellent recovery and is supposed to keep things like knees and hips from bagging out. However, be warned.... If you purchase cheap denim fabric with a small amount of spandex you will NOT get good recovery, you just get more and More and MORE stretch. Which results in EXTRA baggy knees and hips and thighs. 

Case in point. Take a look at the pictures below. The photos on the left were taken right after laundering. This was how they were in fitting during construction. A fairly fitted pair of jeans with some slight additional changes needing to be made. (A slight scoop,in back crotch and and a wedge removal at top of back leg.) not a bad fit for jeans and lovely topstitching details! 

The pic on the right was taken exactly 24 hours later after an 8 hour wearing. On the side view you can clearly see the knees bagging and all the extra stretch in the hip /thigh area.

These are the EXACT same pair of jeans. I certainly cannot have my my jeans growing all day as I wear them. And I'm not talking about the normal ease of jeans as they relax onto your body I'm talking about the fabric just growing and growing!!! Booooo. 

Lesson learned, quality fabric makes a quality garment! 

At th every least I can use these as another pair of wearable muslins. They will be good for gardening and around the house work. Now I need to find some quality denim and try again. On the meantime I have a very nice pice of finewale black courdoroy that I can make up. 

On another not about pants. I met up with Sarah Veblen at the Sewing and Quilt Expo last week. And she gave a good looksee over my non-stretch pair of jeans and she thought the fit was almost perfect! She said to try scooping the back crotch a bit. I did a pants fitting with her and Rae Cumbie for the perfect pants pattern. I need to make some non-jeans style pants and I thought it would be nice to work less on the fitting and more on design and sewing! 

This weekend I've been working on a quilt for my granddaughter and have 2 maternity dresses cut out for my daughter. These are the last of the maternity sewing that I have planned. Hopefully these will hold her out for her last 11 weeks!

On a not so fun note.... I am once again battling a nasty cold this time it is all in my chest. Really dragging me down... I think I will have to skip my physical therapy tomorrow and instead go visit my regular doctor and see what is going on.

Happy Sewing

March 2014 Wrap-up!

Seriously, another month gone by!

I was originally thinking that this month was going to be super slow in the sewing front. After all I was super busy with work at the start of the month and then I had knee surgery. Well, turns out it wasn't as bad as I thought :)

I guess I really maximized my sewing time. Gotta love when that happens!

March started with a pair of jeans and ended with another pair of jeans! Although I still need to blog about the second pair of jeans.

So here goes:

5 fashion items: 2 pairs of jeans, 2 concert tee tops, and 1 maternity/nursing top

5 baby items: 4 crib sheets and 1 chenille blanket

2 home dec items: 1 recovered antique telephone chair in an old coffee sack. And covered 6 dining room chairs (this was a total refashion, these chairs were light blond wood with white seats!)

I just realized that there are a couple items on this list that I have not blooded about! Guess I better get cracking :)

On the list for April....

2 hooded baby towels

Favors for the baby shower

The baby quilt

A dress for my daughter for the shower

A dress for me for the shower

And a dress for an evening event

Another pair of jeans

I guess I better get cracking!! Never enough time :)

Happy Sewing!!

Summer Concert Tee from DixieDIY

I have been searching for a nice loose fitting, cool pattern for tops to use with my thin ITY knits. I love a nice ITY knit! However, I can't use them for anything close fitting because they show every detail of what is underneath. And when you don't have a smooth body underneath an ITY knit can show that to everyone!!!

I don't want to see that and I'm darn sure you don't want to see that either!!! So for more fitted tee shirts I will use medium weight knits.

So, on my quest to find a looser fitting top pattern I came across the Summer Concert Tee from DixieDIY. As I was googling to see what others have said about this pattern up popped the Perfect Pattern Parcel #1. If you have not heard about Perfect Pattern parcel then you must check it out!!! parcel number 2 comes out in 8 days. Parcel number 1 included 5 patterns including the lady Skater Dress, dandelion dress and top, the summer concert tee, a cute little purse and one other top/dress that for the life of me I can not remember the name!!! But I want to make! 

The cool part about this is that you get to name your own price. You pick the price and how much goes to the designers, how much goes to perfect pattern parcel and how much goes to charity. Very Cool!!! A great way to try out 5 indie pattern designers and give back at the same time :) gotta like that!!

Anyway, back to my Summer Concert Tee's. The pictures are taken indoor on the dress form because it was SNOWING here yesterday and if I don't blog about these soon they will never get blogged!!!

I made 2 of them. I really like how they fit nice though the shoulders, upper chest and bust and then fall gracefully from there! The design ease in this top is going to be wonderful when it is hot and yucky out and will look super cut with a pair of skinny capris or Bermuda shorts.

The first with no adjustments cut out on the XL size and fit great except that, as described, it is a crop top in front and I'm not showing my belly..... No discussions, just not going to do it. However, what I can and will do is wear a tank top underneath. Because it was already so cropped, I just did a rolled hem for the hem and then just did the same for the sleeves. 

The second one is color blocked and made out of a very thin/light cotton jersey that is so soft against the skin. But again a fabric that shows every lump and roll through it.... Got the picture? So PERECT for this loose fitting summer tee. This time I lengthened the front by 3 inches and just redrew the back side seam to the same length. Didn't actually have to lengthen the back because it is already quite long. I also changed the sleeve into a band instead. Made construction much easier and the length of the sleeve was better for me. This is going to be a lovely shirt to wear when it is 100plus degrees in Chicago with massive humidity. It's coming, the weather gurus are already warning us that the summer is going to be brutal... Yet it is STILL snowing here.

The neckline looks wonky in this picture but it really isn't. Must have been how it was hanging on the dress form and sticking to the cover.

These were a super fun and quick project! The pattern was delivered via PDF and was quick to tape together. And since I did not need to make any changes other than length I did not even trace. Just used my taped together printer paper as my main pattern. The fabrics were all from my stash and it has made me happy to use some of those lovely ITY and lightweight knits for something nice for me.

Next up on my work table is another pair of jeans. pair number 3! I made some changes to the pattern after wearing my first 2 pairs and can't wait to see how these turn out. :)

I'm off the next 2 days to go the original Sewing and Quilt expo in Schaumburg. I have ,signed up for a bunch of hands on classes. Mostly garment sewing... But I did sneak in one quilting class with Nelly Vikelas. I REALY enjoy her classes! 

See...no pics outside!

February 2014 wrap-up!

Well, another month has gone by! Jeez, time sure is flying :)

February I made 8 items!

3 maternity skirts for my daughter. She loves these!

2 tops for me. I need to shorten the hem by 1 1/2 to 2 inches. They are just slightly too long and bunch up on my hips instead of laying smooth. 

1 black slinky knit cardigan. Love this! Perfect work travel piece. 

1 dancing dress. Yay, super twirly :)

1 pair plum courdoroy jeans. Super comfortable but need to take in outer seam in hip area so not so baggy. It almost feels like I'm wearing Jammies. Hehe. 

Only 1 total wadder this month! And it's not even pictured... Yup,it was that bad. 

Now to see what happens in March!! I have already made another pair of jeans and will continue for another pair or two at least. Also on the list for March is a bunch of baby stuff.

Want to know what is still in my UFO pile??? That darn skirt!! I think I just haven't finished it because I have nothing to really wear it with. I need to make a coordinating jacket and will Finnish the skirt when I make that. 

Happy Sewing!!

My quest for the perfect pair of jeans!

I am on a quest for a perfect pair of jeans!

So far I have made 2.

The first is out of 100% cotton stretch courdoroy in a plum color.

The second is out of a Non-stretch cotton/poly blend. (Not 100% sure of the fiber content, the fabric has been in my stash for years and was given to me by my mom. I did a burn test and it definitely has a synthetic blended in)

Both pairs are made from Peggy Sagers, Silhouettes pattern Lana's jeans. 

I made it to this stage after 2 and 1/2 muslins and some minor changes between the 2 pairs. I still have  several more changes that I want to make to the pattern. Like removing more fabric from the back of the thigh, adding length to the lower leg, adding a larger seam allowance to the front crotch and fly area, re-shape the side seam a little between the widest part of my hip and the knee and move the rear pocket placement a little.

The plum pair of corduroys are a tad big. They have no spandex so the recovery is not as immediate and after wearing them all day they seemed to have 'relaxed'in the hip area. I'm going to take them in a little bit. I do like that they have stretch and are extremely comfortable. I do think they are just a tad short, I would prefer them slightly longer, I like a break in the front over the top of my shoe. 

The blue denim pair have zero stretch. It has been years since I have worn a pair of jeans with absolutely no stretch in them! I wore them dancing with my husband and got several compliments on them. With no stretch they do tend to hold you all together quite well! LOL!!!! they fit great. The major change between these and the plum courdoroy pair is the width of the leg from just above the knee down. I made these as more of a straight leg and I really like that look. 

I pretty much used the same seam allowance on both pairs. This was a bit of an experiment. I knew from making the stretch pair that they were a tad too big and next stretch pair will have to use a bigger seam allowance. This non- stretch was the same seam allowance and this worked out quite well.  Although if you see in the below picture I still need to remove some fabric from the back of the thigh. (And move those pockets closer together!!!)  believe it or not I have already taken out almost 3 inches from just below the seat and back of the thigh!!! Just a bit more and I think they will be perfect.

I have followed along on Angela Wolf's Craftsy class for the details in making these. I have found a couple of here construction methods and her detailing of distressing to be quite useful. I especially like her construction order on making the fly. Both of these pairs came out super nice and flat. Next pair I will be adding distressing. These 2 pairs could not be distressed due to fabric type and content. 

I had a lot of fun with the details in the topstitching! And with the pocket bag materials. The plum pair uses a woven tie dye rayon and the blue pair uses a hot pink silk print. So luxurious and so flat and smooth against my leg. :) 

Here are some more pictures for the details.

Conclusions: I am living proof that you certainly make a pair of great fitting jeans for a pear shape bottom with big hips and smaller waist!!! No plumbers crack for me ;) the waist fits nice, comfortable and best of all stays right where it is supposed too! 

The funny thing about being making these jeans with all the topstitching. Almost all of the detail is just for me!! I almost NEVER wear a belt or tuck in my top, so all that delicious topstitching on the front pockets, belt loops and fly is just for my own personal satisfaction. I really like knowing that I have a great pair of designer jeans on that I made with all the amazing details!! The only part that most people will see is my rear pockets on my bum. When you have a big bum, it gets seen! LOL!!! 

Thanks to the RTW challenge and fearless February for getting me over the fear of jeans! Next up on the list is to make several adjustments to the pattern and make another pair, the perfect pair of jeans is on my horizon! 

Happy Sewing!!

A new Dancing dress! vogue 8894

My hubby and I really, REALLY enjoy dancing! I'm not just talking about the go to club, have a couple drinks and shake your body kind of dancing... I'm talking about REAL dancing. The kind you have to practice and learn the moves, the kind with dance names like rumba, tango, waltz, west coast swing,

 and have dance moves like two way underarm turns, crossover breaks and shoulder checks! Just to name a few:) 

When dancing it sure is nice to have a dress that moves and swings out. Must have great TWIRLABILITY!! 

Now this is Excellent TWIRLABILITY!!! Although I probably should have put on my tights... Ahhhh naked legs!!!

So more about this project!

Pattern: Vogue 8894 View A

A few words about this pattern... It runs HUGE!!! I suppose that this is because the y say it can be used for knit or light weight wovens so obviously it must have a huge a mount of ease built in. I made this in a knit and according to the measurements on the pattern I started with a large for the neckline and shoulder/sleeves (all cut on one) and then  graded out to the XL for the waist down. However, since I was using a knit I had to make major changes. 

I raised the neckline by over an inch and I ended up using 1 5/8 inch seam allowances along the ENTIRE side seam from the sleeve hem all the way to the skirt hem. Which brought me down to medium.  

Here is a picture I took before I took in the side seams. Looks like a GIANT sack of a WADDER. OMG quick take it off!!!!!

Ugg, that is what happens with so called 'EASY' patterns! 

So back to the sewing machine and off I loped 4 inches of fabric and things were a bit better. 

**** So just a disclaimer here, this is NOT the normal style of dress that I would where and I am certain that it will only get worn for dancing. All that fabric from the waist down does not do much to enhance my ample bottom!! However, I wore this dancing last night and several of the ladies commented on my great dress! which was nice to hear:) ****

More on construction. I stabilized the waist seam so that nothing would stretch out of shape with my knit. I eliminated the zipper. With that giant V neck you really don't need it! I also stabilized the neckline with a fusible knit interfacing cut slightly smaller than the neckline and fused to the seamline. 

The sleeves are hemmed with a small 3/8 inch hem turned under and cover stitched. The handkerchief hem is done with a 3 thread hem overlock. Like a wide rolled hem.  I used a dark purple rayon thread that looks quite nice.

Fabric: modal knit, very lovely, soft and a dream to sew with. This was from JoAnn's. I was going to order some fabric for it but then JoAnn's had 60% off the premium fall line. Originally they were asking for $29.99/ yard!!! No way! (Not from an unknown Jo Ann's manufacturer...)

This dress needs to be styled. I don't think it looks the best as is. Although it has a better shape than the first pre adjusted picture!

I feel that I have to wear a camisole under it. It's hard to see in this picture but if I even bend over 15 degrees I feel like I'm flashing everyone!!! NO flashers needed! I could only imagine what would happen when I bend over to change into my dance shoes.... OH my!!

So I added a camisole and a wide black knit elastic belt and I was much happier.

LOL!!! self timed pictures are always an interesting lot. I had to stand on an exercise step cause I kept cutting off the bottom of the dress.

Will I make this again? I may try it with a lightweight woven for the summer... We shall see. It is a good dance dress pattern to keep in my pattern stash.

What's next on my work table? I have been working on making a muslin for a pair of jeans! The pattern has been traced, a muslin marked up and today I baste it together and see what changes need to made in The fitting.

I also have what feels like a zillion yards of fabric for baby projects!! I plan to get a BUNCH of stuff cut out and projects readied so that after my knee surgery I can just sew away!

Happy Sewing!!!

January 2014 wrap-up!

This post is mostly for my own benefit. I was thinking it would be nice to do a wrap up post each month to help me see what I have done and determine where I want to go!

January was a great month for sewing!! I was very productive and was working from home for a big chunk of it. My hubby and I went on a GREAT vacation that we truly enjoyed together.

So here is what I made in January! 8 projects totaling in 11 items.

From left to right starting at the top.

1. Beach dress/cover up made from a nylon missoni like knit bought at Linda Z's using McCalls 5890.

2. Colette Hawthorn dress made up from $2.50 100% cotton shirting from JoAnn's.

3. Sewing Workshops Ann's tank made up in a stretch lace over a knit also from super sale at JoAnn's.

4. Bombshell Bathing Suit made up from swimsuit fabric from JoAnn's (I will buy swimsuit fabric from JoAn's again, the quality is not nearly as nice as my other bombshell suit!)

Left to right across the bottom.

5 and 6. 2 Megan Nielson Ruched maternity tops for my daughter. Both of these knits were from JoAnn's super sale.

7. Embroidered toiletry bag, my own pattern, fabrics from stash left over from a home dec project of my son-in-laws. The lining from my stash as well.

8. Set of 3 envelope pillows, these are a birthday gift and have not yet been blogged about. Just a sneak peek here!

And that wraps it up for January!!

We shall see if I am as productive in February! 

I have 2 items on my must do list. One is a new black sliy knit cardigan. My current one is beginning to look a bit worn!! And number 2 is to make a pair of jeans. (Scary!!!)

Happy Sewing!

Costa Rica paradise!!

My husband and I have returned from our Costa Rica holiday and it was paradise!!! I had every intention of taking a picture every day of what I wore to share and of even doing a couple blog posts. However, paradise took over and I just let it consume me, sooth my soul with its warm breezes, tropical fruits, Sandy beaches and the best mojitos ever! 

It was just a lovely, romantic soothing to the soul vacation. We didn't worry about any details and just enjoyed each other's company and the gorgeous surroundings.

With that said I did a little counting as I was unpacking and getting back to reality.

I brought 22 clothing items (not counting panties and such)

12 of tese items were either complelty handmade or refashioned.

10 were ready to wear of which 3 of these were Capri tights to wear under my brace.

It was so rewarding to be able to dress myself in my mostly my creations knowing that no one else in paradise was going to be wearing the same thing!

Snorkeling in my new blue bombshell swimsuit

A white button up blouse/sun coverup I made fa couple years ago. Fabric from Mood.

We were on the pacific coast and the sunsets were just amazing!

My purple lace tank hanging out in a hammock!

Had jeans on because this was our last day and headed from 95 degrees in Costa Rica to -5 degrees in Chicago!

Another beach/pool coverup refashioned and transformed from an old dress shirt of my husbands. He big a tear in it so I took it added some appliqués, chopped the sleeves and added a hood.

Another older creation of mine is the sleeveless swing tank top made out of black ruffle knit cut on the bias. 

The resort we stayed at was just fabulous! The pool was enormous and had several little bridges crossing over it at various parts.

Here I am wearing my nylon net coverup and holding a 'Morito' a fresh raspberry mojito. So delicious!!! Loved it!!

And just to leave you with a little taste of the country! A couple of my favorite pictures of the wildlife.

White faced capuchin monkey.

Big ole crocodile lounging in the mud!

Beach side massage table where my hubby and I had his and hers massage during the sunset to the sound of the waves!

I hope everyone enjoys:)

Next post I have BIG news!!

Colette Patterns: Hawthorn Sundress and update to Bombshell

I finished my dress for vacation. I wanted a nicer dress that had a little retro feel to it. I have been watching this trend and it suits my curves nicely. 

The pattern, Colette Patterns, Hawthorn ( https://www.colettepatterns.com/shop/hawthorn )is quite nice! It comes together very nicely, the instructions are written quite well and the packaging is clever. The instructions come in a little booklet with the pattern in a pocket at the back. 

I did the 13 buttonholes on my machine and was very pleased that they came out perfect, whew! 

The dress has a delicate little collar that is a nice detail as well as darts on the upper back to make the fit nice with no gaping at the back collar. 

This is actually a wearable muslin! I bought this cotton shirting fabric at JoAnn's for 2.50$ a yard! So for 12$ I wasn't worried if I needed to make major changes and it was nice to work in a muslin that had such a pretty print. I originally had planned for the short sleeves on this dress but I HATED them and immediately took them off! They just did not fit well or look good on me.

I only ended up having to make 2 changes. I was to take in the bodice from the underarms and down a couple inches and I did a sway back adjustment, which was very easy to do since this had a waist seam. It is really nice not to have that pool of fabric at my low back. It makes the dress fit and look so much better.

As I was cutting out this pattern and basting it together I was watching Peggy Sagers 'Fit yourself by Yourself' DVD. It's a good DVD that goes over all the basic fitting alterations that you can do using a mirror. With that fresh in my mind it made my fitting adjustments go lickety split! 

Although, if I ever want to make the version with sleeves I will need to use a different armhole and sleeve because the one on this pattern simply did not work for me. I will also make the facings a little deeper next time.

I have a nice crisp white cotton that I plan on making another version of some sort of this dress. 

Now, on another note, I decided to change the Bombshell swimsuit straps. Originally they were to be tied behind the neck, I changed them to actual straps. I like this better, makes the suit feel more secure and no knot at the back of my neck to bother me. (Excuse the unclipped threads in the photo!)