Sarah Veblen Choose Your Own Focus Workshop -April 2022

 One of my favorite type of workshops is a choose your own focus workshop! The type where you choose the project and what things you want to focus on learning. In Sarah Veblen’s workshops this does not mean you are just “sewing”. Time is spent learning from the other participants and working on taking another step on the journey of exploration of design and construction. 

This particular workshop was 3 days long and i knew exactly what I wanted to work on! In the fall and winter I worked on perfecting the fit of a new French jacket pattern. Sadly I have given away all but one of my collection of French jackets and I was finally feeling like I had enough of a wardrobe built up that I could take the time needed to complete a new jacket. This time I really wanted to incorporate this beautiful butterfly guipure lace. I had everything I needed!! This spring workshop with Sarah was just what I needed to get my butt in gear to make the jacket. I knew what parts I could easily do by myself and then there were parts that I would have either had to do some research in books and the web OR I could bring them to Sarah.

I had some questions on the sleeve cuff. Actually lots and lots of questions! Of course many of the questions I had were around the best and correct way to execute the sleeve cuff. As expected there is no right or wrong way and it all depends on the design you want and how you want to execute… designers choice! It was really good to have a nice conversation with a sewing professional and several other experienced makers to play off ideas and pros and cons and just to share information. I find it always to be very inspiring and much less boring than just picking a pattern and following those directions! (Although there are times when just following a pattern is so nice and easy!)

Discussions were had around how to construct the sleeve cuff, how to sew on the butterfly lace and then to design where to put the butterflies. We also assessed different traditional French jacket trims and buttons as well. Turns out after spending a lot of time pinning and repinning that the trims, all the trims I brought, were just too heavy and then everything looked too forced and stuck on. So much better without the trim!

I also worked on two muslins, one a straight skirt. Just a front and a back, Sarah draped in the  front and back darts and perfected the fit. I later used this pattern to make a straight denim style skirt and was very happy with the fit!

The other muslin was for Vogue 9187 an armsyce princess seam shell. That muslin is still hanging in my sewing area waiting for all the changes to translated onto the pattern and a new muslin made. 

I think once the shell is perfected then I really only have 2 more master patterns to work on. A button down or button up shirt  and shirt dress. I cant believe it has taken me almost 2 years to remake my entire wardrobe of patterns after all that weight loss. Every time my pancreas acts up I just keep my fingers crossed I don’t have another mega weight loss! 

The 3 days were filled with so much good sewing and design time. Sarah gave us all several challenges over the time. One was drawing necklines on our coquis and exploring designs that we would normally not use along with the exercise of fast sketching. Sketch as many necklines as you can in 10 mins. 

Another exercise was to take inspiration from a nature photograph and put together a color palette that would be corresponding to the photo. I opted to use a photo taken at the Garfield Park Conservatory and use swatches from my big swatch collection for my palette.

We spent time every morning and afternoon gathered together talking, discussing our projects and any other design questions that come up. This discussion time is so key to learning from each other and often leads to lots of exciting discoveries and ideas.

I really enjoy spending creative time with friends new and old! It really is inspiring to see the amazing garments that these ladies create.

Happy Sewing!

Little Arya joined us one day and she enjoyed having her own muslins to work on! 

Summer Sewing 2021: West End Pants

I am so behind on blogging!!  This spring was spent on moving and setting up my new home and sewing space (see previous post for sewing space photos!) The later spring and early summer were spent on getting my knee fixed and sewing some clothes that actually fit and enjoying getting to see people again, even if it only lasted for a little while. I really made a decision to put blogging aside just for a little while. I have a feeling that with this new Delta variant that there will be plenty of time now to catch up on the solitary indoor activities… like blogging!

Earlier this spring I made the decision to do a make nine suduko style SWAP (sewing with a purpose) and these pants were a part of that plan.

Pattern: The Sewing Workshop West End Pants. I started with a muslin, right now there are muslins and/or wearable muslins being made for almost everything due to all the weight loss from last winter. The Sewing Workshop has a variety if sizes with the regular sizing being XS to XXL max hip of 47.5 inches and the Plus size collection goin up to a 5X or max hip of 61 inches. 

The pattern that I have is a paper pattern that only goes up to XXL. I ended up cutting a M or size 14.

Fit Changes:  I made some adjustments to the waist  placement/ shape and I scooped out the back crotch to give me a little more length/room in the back crotch due to my booty shape.

Design Changes: None! Other than those small fit changes mentioned above, I made the pattern as is and I am very happy with it! These are super fun and comfortable wide leg, cropped, elastic waist linen pants and the color is just the best!! 

What I really like about these pants: the elasticized waist is done just right, enough to be comfortable and pull on pants but not too much that it feels overly bulky. I made mine so that the pants just slip over my hips and then gathered in the rest from my hip to waist with a nice wide elastic. They also have pockets!! For me pockets are a must and every time I make a garment that does not have pockets i am mad at myself for not adding them. These pockets are nice and big and they do not gape open. Last but not least, I like my butt fit in them, after i did a little scooping they looked perfect and got rid of the dipping HBLS in the back (Sorry- did not take a picture in the muslin, was just quite in the sewing zone!)

Fabric: The fabric is a Merchant and Mills linen from Oak Fabrics. Excellent weight for pants and a dream to work with. I did wash and dry the fabric twice before I cut into it. Linen just likes to shrink and I like how linen just softens up with washing. Since making these I wash them and damp dry them in the machine and then hang to finish drying. If I do it this way then there is no need for ironing and then they also last much longer. The fabric was a bit on the expensive side but it was well worth it, such an excellent bottom weight, dress weight (no need to line) or a light jacket. 

The pattern was brought to my attention by my roommate from the American Sewing Guild Hong Kong trip that I took in 2018. She wore the West End top and i really liked her version so purchased the pattern when I got back home and finally got around to making it! More on the West End top in a later post.

Construction notes: Nothing special! These are a very straightforward pair of pants with a nice drafted pocket and separate waistband. for the most part pants construction is straightforward, the challenge lies with the fitting. 

The top that I am wearing in these photos is a self drafted t-shirt pattern that I use as my TNT knit master, also a part of my SWAP.

I have worn these pants several times already this summer and I really am loving having them. A lovely bright and fun pair of summer pants and they are highly reflective of me and my personality. I bring that up because I have been trying very hard to be intentional in what i am making and adding to my wardrobe or refashioning to fit my new body shape. There has been a lot of reflecting on how my lifestyle has changed right now due to the ongoing pandemic. As many people i am dressing a little more casually but I refuse to be sloppy! I love color and i love to look nice and I love to create so changing gears a little bit to creating fun and high quality clothing for a more work from home life has been interesting. 

These pants fit right into that plan. I can dress them up or down and I can wear them out for lunch with the ladies or wear them while sewing and walking my little dog, They are quite versatile and i feel good in them. I suppose in the end that is all that counts!!

This is definitely a pants pattern that I will make again. I am thinking another pair in linen or maybe a wool lined pair to wear with tall boots in the fall and spring. They could also easily be lengthened into full length for a very dramatic pair of viscose/rayon fluid pair! So many possibilities:) 

Happy Sewing!!

Below are a couple photos from my pants in action, they worked great for a girls family outing on the Chicago river.