Tuesday, May 7, 2019

Organza windows tutorial to make faux belt loops

Last week I showed my raspberry pink wool flannel spring suit. One of the very fun details in that garment is the technique that I used to create the faux belt loops. This tutorial is mainly for my own records but I thought I would share it out in case anyone was interested in it.

I do want to re-iterate that before I did this on the actual garment fabric that I made several tests.
I tested for the best method, the size of the windows and the size of the belting, could I make it work across seams, could I make them reproducible, what would be the best marking methods, did I need interfacing and what type would be best, etc, etc, etc. I spent several hours testing.

After my testing, I wrote down all my steps and took pictures because I knew that I would not be able to do all 32 windows in one sitting.

Step 1: mark the fabric on the RIGHT side. I did a combination of chalk and of silk thread marking. Luckily for me on my flannel the chalk marks were fairly easy to brush away. I did the thread basting on the back of the garment and the chalk marking on the pockets and the jacket cuffs. I could not use heat erasable pen because I needed to use the iron mid way.

Step 2: Cut out, mark the silk organza and pin directly over the markings in step one. My silk organza pieces were roughly 3 inches square. I marked these with heat erasable pen to the exact size I wanted the windows to be. 1 1/8 inches long by 1/8 inch wide and 1/2 inch apart. Silk organza squares are pinned to right side of fabric.

Step 3: using a small stitch length, stitch the rectangle. I used a length of 1.6 on my Babylock and started and stopped in the middle of one long side with no back stitches.

Step 3 Continued: you can see the stitching of the 2 windows on the back of the interfaced fabric.

Step 4: from the right side carefully cut down the center and make 2 cuts into the corners going right up to the stitch line. On a regular basis I do not use a seam sealant in the corners. I may have used it on one or two spots when I felt like the cuts I made may have gone into the stitching. You can tell if it is needed when you pull the organize through to the right side.

Step 5: after pressing stitching I then pulled the organza through the hole and to the back side of the fabric. Using a wooden stiletto or other tool I carefully pressed the window open and made sure that the organza was favored to the back. This meant that you could not see it from the front side.

Step 6: Hand stitch the organza window down being careful that your stitches do not show on the right side of the fabric. 
After stitching I trimmed the organza (not shown)

Below is a close up of a pair of windows side by side with the belting threaded through. The 1/2 inch space left between the 2 windows is what creates the faux belt loop. I do want to re-iterate that I do not think that this technique would be appropriate for a working belt or working strap. On this garment the belting is purely for ornamentation.

I’ll be happy to answer any questions if they come up :)

Happy Sewing!!!
The Princess really enjoyed coloring Easter eggs and then eating them!! LOL!

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